Thursday, 14 September 2017

Adventures in Sewing: Simplicity 1587

It's been a while since I have posted on this blog. I've been busy with my job and with social life. I have, however, had the time to sew another great petite garment from a petiteable pattern: Simplicity 1587. Although I have been able to find a ton of great petite and juniors' size clothing at the mall and online, I also like to be able to make my own clothing. Most sewing patterns don't cater to petites, but Simplicity sometimes makes "petiteable" patterns, which are patterns for women of average height but have petite cutting lines so that shorter women can easily alter for their own height. 




I have a whole bunch of home-made clothes that I wear semi-regularly: the Butterick 4985 shirt, a cotton knit maxi skirt, a bunch of summer dresses, and a kimono. I want to start getting more into dieselpunk fashion so I wanted to sew some 1940's and 1930's dresses. The Simplicity 1587 is the only dieselpunk-era sewing pattern that is petiteable so I went for it by default. The pattern comes in pattern dress sizes 6-12 (this is NOT the same as RTW dress sizes) and I chose a size 6. Unlike the Butterick 4985, I only recommend this pattern for advanced sewists for the following reason: there are too many parts to this dress. The bodice yoke was fine but the hip yoke and matching these seams at the sides was a nightmare. the hip yoke seams still don't match perfectly even after 3 or 4 attempts. The finished dress does fit great though. Another thing I don't like about the pattern is how the petite cutting lines are only for the bodice, which I used to shorten the bodice by 1". There are no petite cutting lines for the skirt portion of the dress, so I had to guess and shorten it by 5/8".




Although the finished product looks great, I don't ever want to sew this dress again. The matching the hip yoke seams at the sides is too much of a nightmare. 




Tuesday, 21 February 2017

Sew Your Own Bra! Simplicity releases the 8339 pattern, 30A-44G

I have previously written on the availability of sewing patterns for people who have a smaller or larger bust and have difficulty finding tops and dresses that fit. Major brand sewing patterns*** provide straight size women with patterns for A-D dress cup sizes (in the case of Butterick, McCall's, and Simplicity) and B-DD dress cup sizes (in the case of Simplicity). Cashmerette provides plus size women with patterns for C-H dress cup sizes. 




But what about those of us who want to sew our own bras? It's nice and all to have a closet full of tops and dresses that fit our bust, but for sewing-minded people in the bra-fitting community often lack easily-available sewing patterns in non-matrix sizes. 

In comes Simplicity (of all brands) to the rescue! I don't typically expect a major brand to release such a pattern, but the 8339 Misses' Knit Sports Bras comes in sizes 30A-44G! As Simplicity is a US brand, they use inconsistent sizing nomenclature. Their sizing goes like: A, B, C, D, DD, E, F, and G so their G cup corresponds to a UK FF cup. I am super excited to sew this pattern in 30D. If you're looking for a sports bra that actually comes in your size, maybe try sewing this one and see how it turns out!



***Major brand sewing patterns include: Butterick, McCall's, Simplicity, and Vogue

Saturday, 11 February 2017

Nordstrom now carries Honeydew Intimates in store! 30B-36DD!





Nordstrom is a great resource for those of us who want to shop in-store for bras outside of the matrix. In addition to Dillard's and independently owned lingerie stores, Nordstrom offers a considerable selection of bras in non matrix sizes. It is especially notable for its collection of Betsey Johnson bras, which come in 30B-E, 32A-34F, and 36A-E. After boycotting Nordstrom for the last few months (https://grabyourwallet.org/), I have decided to return to shopping there just in time to find a pleasant surprise. Honeydew Intimates is a relatively unknown brand and Nordstrom has been carrying their bras in store as of late. They come in matrix sizes (32A-36DD) but they also offer 30B-30DD! This great news for us gals who need non-matrix sizes. Their aesthetic is youthful and cute, much like Betsey Johnson, b.tempt'd, Aerie, Cleo, and Curvy Kate. They have a mix of wired and non-wired bras. The wired styles are all moulded, some push-up, some non-pushup. 

I tried a bunch of their bras in 30D, so let's take a look at some of them:





Skinz Underwire T-shirt Bra - felt somewhat small in the cups, was very immediately shallow, I quadded out of the top edges of the cups. This bra would be good if you have a very shallow shape.





Skinz Underwire Push-up Bra - standard moulded push-up bra. Works for shallow and broad rooted shapes. I quadded out of the top edges again, might run a bit small in the cups.



Camellia Underwire Balconette Bra - this one is a similar fit to the Betsey Johnson Starlet Lace. The band is noticeably tighter than other Honeydew bras. It feels like a Gossard 30 band honestly. If your snug underbust measurement is 28" or under, this might be a good one for you. It is a tad bit shallow for me at the bottom parts of the cups. Again, I quadded out of the top edges. 

Conclusion: Honeydew Intimates is a good brand if you have a very shallow, and classically broad rooted shape that is common amongst people with small breasts. It is too shallow for me, but my shape isn't extremely shallow. Their bras might all run a bit small in overall cup volume. If you are in between cup sizes, size up.