Saturday, 4 June 2016
I don't have a large bust but I do have a very small waist, which makes for a relatively high bust:waist ratio. Many people in the bra-fitting community struggle just as much with finding shirts and dresses that fit the bust as we do with finding bras outside of the matrix (32A - 38E). I myself struggle with finding dresses that fit the top half of my body (US RTW size 2 - 4) and the bottom half of my body (US RTW size 00 or 0). One way to solve this problem is to buy RTW bust-friendly clothing. Another way we can solve this problem is by making our own clothing!
Before you get out your fabric scissors, we should go over one really important concept: Dress cup size is NOT bra cup size! In fact, when you properly measure your bra cup size and your dress cup size, you will most likely find that your dress cup size is smaller than your bra cup size! For example, 30D and 28DD are my most often worn bra cup sizes, but I need a 'C' in dress cup sizes. You might find that you normally wear 32F in bra cup sizes and a 'D' in dress cup sizes.
Contrary to some people's ideas (I have had a commenter on my blog and on another forum guess that dress cup size is "the bra size you'd get with the +4 method"), DO NOT USE THE UNDERBUST +4" METHOD. The underbust +4" method is just as inaccurate for determining bra cup sizes as it is for determining dress cup sizes. When determining your dress cup size, use the overbust method. Getting your dress cup size is as easy as 1, 2, 3...
Step 1: Before measuring, wear the bra that you would most likely wear with the garment that you want to make.
Step 2. Take your overbust measurement.
Step 3: Take your full bust measurement, then subtract your overbust measurement from your full bust measurement.
Example:" if your overbust measurement is 31" and your full bust measurement is 34", 34 - 31 = 3. Therefore, your dress cup size is 'C'. Here is the chart for dress cup size progression: